Melbourne grew up on the banks of the Yarra river at the point where the upstream fresh water met the saltwater from the bay, explorer John Batman having declared “This will be the place for a village“. The saltwater section took a long curved route which was only passable by the smallest ships. This led to the first railway line in Victoria being built, connecting the port at Williamstown with Melbourne. The first trains ran in 1857.
After the 1850s Gold Rush, with a fast-growing population and ships getting larger, it was obvious to all that something must be done to facilitate maritime traffic. As often now, good intentions didn’t translate into early action. Finally in 1877 the Melbourne Harbor [sic] Trust was formed. One of its first actions was to appoint Sir John Coode, the leading harbour engineer of his day, to advise them. He came up with a twofold plan: widening and straightening the river between city and bay, then constructing docks to the immediate west of the city centre and next to the railway.
Work on the Coode Canal, as it was named, began in 1880. It opened in 1886 followed by Victoria dock in 1892. Until the 1970s Victoria Dock, since renamed as Victoria Harbour, served as Melbourne’s principal port but is now just home to a number of ferries and lots of privately-owned leisure boats as well as being the centre of Melbourne’s Docklands suburb.
The Lady Cutler was built in 1968 as the first of seven similar double-ended Sydney ferries. After 22 years in service she was withdrawn and sold to private interests, changing hands several times, before being sold to Jeff Gordon and Ann-Maree O’Brien in 2007. They provided the funds to complete the restoration and on 8th December 2007 she was recommissioned by Lady Joan Cutler, wife of Sir Roden Cutler (Governor of New South Wales 1966-1981) as the Melbourne Showboat. Now between cruises she’s berthed below my balcony.
The cruise
Our allotted boarding time was noon. We boarded at the Victoria Harbour ferry terminal, then sailed out headed down the Coode Canal. On the north bank we passed under the Bolte Bridge, Appleton Dock, opened 1956, which handles general cargo, then Swanson Dock named for Victor Swanson, chairman of the Melbourne Harbor Trust commissioners from 1960 until his untimely death in 1972 aged 61. One of his first initiatives was to undertake a tour of worldwide port facilities. He returned to Melbourne convinced that the future lay in containerisation and this would need a purpose designed facility. The first container berth for overseas trade was opened in 1969 and the fourth began handling ships in 1972.
As we continued down river we passed the Maribyrnong river branching off to the right before passing under the imposing West Gate Bridge, construction began 1968. completed . In October 1970 one of the under-construction spans collapsed: 35 workers were killed. The bridge finally opened in 1978. The 58m clearance under the bridge lets most container ships access Swanson Dock.
With the huge Williamstown marina in view we turned round and started to retrace our course back to Victoria Harbour. On the starboard side we passed the Webb Dock which since 1959 has handled containers, general cargo and motor vehicles. Car carriers are IMO the ugliest of ships. Nearly all cars in Australia are imported, most through Webb Dock. Between Webb Dock and the ferry terminal there’s not too much of interest on the south bank, aka Fishermen’s Bend. In the past this area was home to s lot manufacturing including Commonwealth Aircraft Corporation (who had their own airstrip), and Holden and Rootes car assembly plants. All these and many others have since closed but Boeing still occupy a considerable facility. Back at the ferry terminal we all agreed that it had been a good trip. Thanks go to the Lady Cutler’s hospitality staff for looking after us so well.
